Відео

The downsides to a clone like this are the materials and the fact that some people sell them as originals.

I will have a look at it. Thanks for suggesting it

@franticflintstone7999 If you buy a nextool mini sailor, it is the same product without olight brand at half the price.

yes. I looked into them and noticed that. I also like the fact that the nextool comes in 2 versions. Will definitely look into them

​@@K.M925 They were about the same price when I got mine -- roughly 25 bucks. About a dollar cheaper for the NexTool on the version with the knife. The knife-less Nextool is a few bucks lower than that. (I don't shop on AliExpress -- it may be half off on there.) So I went with the Otacle because I preferred the scales and fit and finish.

@@SpartanJohns Only problem with the scissors IMHO is the little tab to deploy them can break your fingernail, but I've learned to come at it from a different angle to prevent that. Also, while the spring is strong, if it breaks that's it because there's not much of a warranty.

Thank you for the suggestion. I will have a look at it

This is what i meant. The scissors of the sd, when new, have a bit more aggression to them. You can sharpen them to get that back. However tightening the pin and bending the blades is something i am not into trying out. What i found out is that even when you use the scissors of the sd for a long time, even after they lose the initial aggression they still cut better than most other scissors.

@SpartanJohns ah, ok, yes that makes sense, thanks for the clarification. Also, that is a really good point about the longevity of the vic scissors, definitely mirrors my experience when I think about it

mie imi place sa folosesc forfecuta de la vic si din acest motiv am luat clipitool sperand la ceva cel putin la fel de bun.

@@SpartanJohns Hmm....vic mi a parut mereu un jack of all trades, nu mi da impresia de ceva de incredere-am preferat spyderco sau CS pt lama si cam atat. Cel putin stiu ca am "lama" de incredere inclusiv ca lock ( code 4, prolite, recon4)...pt keychain am un mini pushdagger- da stiu, am "probleme" 😂 dar astea sunt pt peace of mind. Chiar si cand am refacut o cusatura la geanta de scule sau centura, am taiat firul cu un boker 😂... Multa sanatate si la cat mai multe videoclipuri man !

Daca te uiti la ultimul clip pe care l-am facut cu vic sd o sa vezi ca e mult mai capabil decat pare la prima vedere. Si mie imi place sa incerc tot felul de unelte de la tot felul de producatori. In ultima vreme am folosit foarte mult bricegele victorinox testand daca pot face acelasi chestii, pe care le fac cu altele, cu ele. Depinde doar de cum setezi geometria lamei si un pic de tehnica. Mie imi place classic sd pt ca il pot lua oriunde cu mine fara probleme

I am really happy that i can provide some useful information. For me the “factory settings” on a knife are not so important but i imagine that for some they might be. This is why i try to give these sort of information. As well as what it “can do” after sharpening and slightly modding the handle. I realise that i have a different viewpoint than regular users since i am more a “tester” than a user so i am happy when i know that i can give useful information.

Glad to hear that people are applying common sense and sharpening steel to see if youtuber statements make sense. I have been sharpening k390, for the past 6-7 months on sandpaper. Gradually reducing the thickness of the blade and testing to see if i can notice “a weaker edge” do to the abrasive. None so far. Been doing the same thing to zdp for a few years now. Same result. I have, a few weeks ago, received a sage 5 lw with a maxamet blade. I restored the edge with sandpaper. Of course diamond stones will cut it faster and of course there can be differences when you’re “chasing the perfect apex” but in day to day activities i could not really notice differences. I will, after i am done with testing k390, reprofile the maxamet blade on sandpaper and sharpen it on sandpaper only. And i am sure that even at lower edge angles and thicknesses there will be no difference in how the edge performs. There is the possibility that i am wrong…that would truly be interesting.

@@SpartanJohns I sharpened Maxamet (Spyderco Manix 2) with precise angle sharpener and Diamond stones because i had difficulties. For me Maxamet edge stability was good when i sharpened it on 17 degrees per side, Lower angles caused me the problems - chipping. It is damn hard and more brittle steel, not intended to hard work. But light work like cardboards ets fantastic. Maxamet don't like force which is comig from side something like carving - this is no go. But if we talking about steels for me the best performance steel is the K390 and also yes M390 is also great steel for less money this is great option.

I keep my PM2 with a Maxamet blade at 13 dps. Had no issues with it thru cardboard, hard plastic and hard, dry beechwood. I did sharpen it on diamond stones because i was curious how i could get/maintain a hair whittling edge. I have noticed no issues with edge instability so far. The Sage 5 LW Maxamet is now at 16 dps. Too thick bte for my liking and it is hard to see the benefits of such steels at large edge angles/thicknesses. I have seen videos about maxamet fracturing while sharpening but i have not noticed that. Been playing around with it for over a year now. My curiosity is what it does if treated(sharpened and used) like any other steel. So far its edge holding abilities in abrazive materials is fantastic and from what i noticed it is more affected by the environment than k390, 15v, m4. Now i am even more curious

@@SpartanJohns well my Manix 2 is from very early production I don't remember how many years a go, but i remember that it was really back in time when directly appeared on the market. Maybe there is the problem. Heat threateng? God know. Maybe I will buy Native 5 one day and try how it will behave.

I have seen youtubers post videos about that when the first batches of maxamet came out. Have not had any problems with mine so far

I like the model. The action, the feel in hand as well as the large variety of color/materials they offered it in

Never had the espada. Can imagine that one is not too shabby. As for this one: it is amazing imo.

I like it. Definitely different than other folders i own

Unfortunately i have noticed the same issues. For the past fee years. Edge leaves a lot to be desired and grinds are asimetrycal. Recently i have had a few issues with golden models as well. The only ones which were ok were the Taichung ones. My latest endela k390 came with a visible burr. Once i removed it the edge was ok but the sharpening was uneven. Same issue you described. Since i sharpen/test it is not a real issue for me. But i can imagine how when someone pays 130+ for a folder it might not be the best experience

As far as spyderco goes i think it is one of their best designs. Only thing it needed for me was the deep carry pocket clip to make it more comfortable

I agree! Have never heard any bad things about it and have not had any fails from mine.

I never noticed. I used to be but not anymore. Left that life/land in the rearview

@@SpartanJohns Strange answer. Don't understand how you can't be Romanian anymore even if you left. Anyway, thanks for the videos always nice to see your point of view on knives since you are always so detailed and your reviews are always helpful. I carry a Ruike S21-N on my keys and a Victorinox Huntsman in my bag, maybe I should buy a classic also hmmm.

I guess it’s a state of mind. Leaving life/land behind and not feeling you belong there at all anymore. Since i left i have never been back nor wish to do so. I had the huntsman. A good model. For city and for outdoor. I recently switched to the compact. Fits my needs much better. A classic sd is, imo, always a good choice to have on your keychain. Since you can take it anywhere even thru airport security. So you can always have a small edge and more important: those very capable scissors

Adamantium and 3V with Delta HT. Got it! But other than that…if you chop thru steel wire all steels with all HT’s will chip, bend…

I heard that CPM M4 can do it as well, but I haven't seen it. However, yeap, these are extreme exceptions. Steels obtained via standard metalurgy will either chip or plastically deform doing this (and most of the powder steels will chip as well).

Nope! Neither M4, 3V or any other steel can resist taking damage when you are chopping thru steel wire. The tests you see on youtube are of knives with large edge angles and soft steel. Or 1 in a milion tries. You have to understand that chopping introduces a whole other ballpark of tensions. Unlike normal cutting. Stories and claims i have heard a lot. However i have also tested many steels. M4 and 3V among them. Both powder steels. That is what CPM does. Crucible Particle Metallurgy. Don’t believe such stories. Better to test for yourself. That is what i started doing for a long time now…

Nope, I'm talking about my experience, not what I see on YT. I have a Swamp Rat Free Rein Wakizashi in 3V @62 HRC. I chopped wood that had insertions of steel wire under the bark. I didn't notice that until I finished. I had no chip at all, just two minor dents that could be felt when moving the nail onto the edge, but not visible with the eye. And the times I might hit and cut those wires were more than twice for sure. The edge is somehow thick, but not as thick as it is on my other Busse knives. It is just about comparable with the edge on my Fallkniven A2, just that it's not convexed. So this is true. It's one of the blades that I use in one of my videos. Properly heat treated CPM-3V can do that. It's tru, I'm not fabulating. For M4 I mentioned that I just heard about it, but I hanev't seen it. For 3V I have personally experienced it.

Soft steel does not chip. Axes, machetes made out of non stainless “soft” steel(55-57 hrc) will not chip. They will dull. True, some keep 3v at lower hardness levels, but that is wasting good steel. Or saving money on HT. You can leave any steel soft so that it does not chip but rather bend. But those bends(flat or warped) require steel to be removed beyond the immediate area of damage, just like chips. Otherwise you are leaving weakened steel there. Which, in the long run, will not help you at all. So rather than an expensive 3v which was left soft to save money on HT, i would take a 1095(ROWEN HT), O1, or a well heat treated AEB-L and adapt the geometry to what it is you want to cut.

For a number of reasons. Handle, grind, steel, sheath. Moras are good but, for example, as a knife used for processing game, the f1 will do a better job not just at cutting but also prying

@@SpartanJohns That's a good point. I haven't thought about prying with a small knife, but it's a valid usage, especially when hammering and/or batoning it into wood or bone. 👍

Such knives are not meant for cutting and whittling tasks alone. A blade like the mora 510(1,5-2,0 mm) is more suited for that. A full height convex blade might so well with cutting tasks better than one would expect. But it’s primary purpose is still resisting abuse. Looking at the F1 especially you dan understand why the lamination and why Fallkniven heat treats their vg10 to a higher hardness even if the steel becomes “chippy”. I have tested this too. Better for edge retention. It develops microchips which will act like microserrations. The outer softer layers will help it resist such tasks like chopping, prying, batoning. Now i see the logic behind it. Took me a while

Chipping is still one of the worst things that can happen to a knife edge. From a health point of view it's risky to have microchips migrating into your food, especially from a steel that includes toxical elements like Nickel, Mercury, or Cobalt - which are carcinogenic (and VG-10 has a high amount of Cobalt). And you normally need to do some food prep in survival. From another perspective, chipping weakens the neighbour areas of the impact, inducing cracks and fisures around the affected area. That is why a chipped edge is always more difficult to restore by resharpening, without removing a lot more material than you would for a roll or dent. In my experience M390 beats VG-10 in all regards (including toughness and corrosion resistance) and it has aprox. 4 times the edge retention than VG-10. I think that Fallkniven continues to use VG-10, COS and the likes just because of the cost factor, because they have an advantageous contract with Takefu. I have two Fallknivens and like them so much for the craftmanship, design, and quality control, but I hate them so much because of the VG-10 steel.

Chipping is not chipping. Different steels chip in different ways. Sometimes it can be advantagious. When talking about steels with a large volume of hard carbides like s110v or maxamet these chip very different than vg10. In everyday/outdoor use i never had a steel which i could say greatly(1-4 or 1-5) outperformed another. What you are cutting is most important, then technique and geometry. Steel, imo, is last. As for coatings and steel getting into food, i don’t worry about that. Just like teflon or aluminium.

I do not have an issue with the patina on my k390. And have not noticed any rust. The only thing which ever caused a dull spot was contact with glass. I imagine ceramic does the same. Stropping more will give you a finer edge. But once in a while you need to do a complete sharpening(remove the apex and form a new one)

Glad you enjoyed the video

Definitely a big folder. I tested it against the esee4. Made a video. Sure it is not going to be as resistant to abuse as a well made fixed blade but i think it definitely held its own

I think i mentioned it in more than 1 video including this one that this d2 does not compare with the one Brisa heat treats. That one is much batter. As for the elementum 2 button lock..it is thinner and as such not really made for abuse. I also got one recently and i enjoy the thin grind. Makes cutting tasks very easy. For stronger tips which can be abused: the benchmade 940 or most Cold Steel knives.

Victorinox scissors are set up good. So sharpening is easy. Other scissors are not set up so good. Even if sharpened they will not cut as good.

Thanks! Hope you found the video useful too not just the pronunciation. 😉

I hope you will like it. The nice thing about K390 is that while sharpening, even if you make mistakes you can still get a great edge....and the model...well... I like it very much. Let me know one you got it if you can relate to what I said in the video and if you noticed something I did not.

I am interested in all Spyderco models! Just got another knife in K390 and debated a lot whether to get the Leafjumper or the Endela. I went for the Endela this time. In hindsight maybe the Leafjumper might have been more interesting. however there was one nice surprise with the Endela. Even if the edge was left with a burr on, and sharpened at slightly different edge angles the angle was about 15-16 dps...and at 0.3-0.4 mm...that is good

@@SpartanJohns Thanks, i own an Endela in K390 an i take it everytime versus my PM2. The blade shape really seems to be superior for EDC tasks, Stronger and less dangerous tip helps TOO. The only downside is that you canot cut that hard because of the slim handle without choil. Ideally i would have a Stretch 2 handle combined with Endela or Leafjumper blade.

@@yoannmolard-auclair592 to be honest i also thought the tip of the pm2 or stretch 2 to be a bit too thin. But testing it, And not really forcing it, i found no issues. The manix tip is much sturdier by comparison but with abuse you can see i broke it. For a really sturdy tip: try the cold steel ultimate hunter.

It’s more thought out for hunting tasks

Hi Stephan. Vics sind nicht oft beeindruckend. Allerdings das sie immer arbeitsbereit kommen und dass die Schaere immer top ist…das beindruckt schon! Je mehr ich mit vics, auch in der Kueche, arbeite um so mehr bin ich von den Teilen fasziniert. Als naechstes muss ich mir ein Windmuehl Masser mal kaufen! Eins der kleinen schalmesser. Von was ich gesehen habe sind die Schliffe sehr beeindruckend. Danke! LG, Denis

I still have 3 benchmades. Bugout, mini bugout, auto immunity. Sold the rest because i had to. However the griptilian and the 940 i still regret selling. They can be fidgety to get to where the action is great and no bladeplay but with some experience it then becomes easy. I still go for spydercos mainly because of the wide variety of steels. I like sharpening so…there’s that. As a whole i like benchmade. Just wish they would also eork on their grinds, like they did with the taggedout

@@SpartanJohns One thing I wish Benchmade would do is use T8 body screws.

@@carmelotansengco4605 i wish that all companies would use t8 as their smallest screws.

Not so much opening as closing it. When the blade slammed in the lockbar. Still a design flaw as it can easily be done so that it does not happen.

Merci

No i have not. Only wildlife, hunter and scandinavian forest

I agree that the byrd designs are much more ergonomic and for work knives…make more sense

Diamond file and patience

Glad you liked it. It is a grat product. And their quality and standards have remained very high over the years. Improved i would say

I considered it. I also like having the small blade. As i see these knives more as “a useful thing on my keychain” i was never that tempted to find a better model also from vic. It is rare for me to have such tools. That i really don’t view as a tool but also a toy. This is why i never really made a video about it for so long. Lately, as i started trying to replace it with something else and comparing it just dawned on me that this little tool was something which was so good that i never thought about it

oh yes! i completely agree! with a good HT aus8 is superb!

not quite sure which part you mean...

some new models seem quite interesting. but tbh...the older models just feel better in hand. I have had a few ZT's but they were always very thick behind the edge and build more for abusive work than to be used as fine cutting tools. the 0350 is a great heavy duty work folder but not so adequate for finer cutting tasks. The GB2 falls under more categories: gentleman' folder, heavier task knife and due to the grind you can also do finer tasks with it. plus i think it just looks good in either role

thank you! glad you liked it!

I have had the alox sd. it is very slim and nice. maybe it is because of the lower price of the regular models, and the tweezer/toothpick that I prefer these. but with or without scales, in the wallet or on your keys...to me, having one of these just makes sense

eu am purtat modelul asta mult timp...si incetu cu incetu am inceput sa il folosesc tot mai des. dupa aia l-am ascutit i am subtiat taisul...e foarte util pt cat de mic e. si e cel putin la fel de rezistent pe cat e de util

glad you are liking it. i played around with the fiskars axes. i like them. but i can definitely understand why you feel the way you feel about the x13. a friend of mine has one and uses it. but he sharpened it and convexed it. my favorite axe so far price/performace/quality has been the husqvarna carpenter's axe. check it out. when i got it it was about 60 euros...lately their prices have gone up

@@SpartanJohns convexed its more versatile probably, yes. Actually i got way too many axes over the years. And i always Come back to the same two or three models. And i am damn happy i got what i got. Especially the swedish stuff is so expensive now its insane. That makes alternatives like the Ganzo even more attractive of course.

i have never tested. i am sure others have. in use i have not seen a difference between coated and uncoated s30v

lil native is chunkier. overal i preffer the chaparral but they are very different

Glad you enjoyed it!

to be 100% honest i get by with the victorinox sd on my keychain. I am more curious about how i can adapt it to me. round off the g10 scales, thin out the grind. For me, this blade would be enough, but as it is, it is a bit too thick behind the edge. and yes, the handle is very bulky. but i like the lack of a hump, as you said and the lack of jimping. and the wire pocket clip, in my book, is always a good idea. yes...the frn model which will be released is interesting, but the dragonfly....while i like it, for use i would take the chucky lil native anyday.

me too!

in time i think i will round off the g10 handle scales and thin out the grind. I do like it for its size. glad to hear i am not the only one