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SpartanJohns
Romania
Приєднався 17 жов 2009
www.patreon.com/SpartanJohns
www.tiktok.com/@tinnybrownbear
All in good fun…
Denis
www.tiktok.com/@tinnybrownbear
All in good fun…
Denis
Відео
Victorinox Classic SD - Hard Tests/Thoughts
Переглядів 374Місяць тому
www.patreon.com/SpartanJohns I don't think I need to say this but(given where society is now) here it goes: This is abusive testing! I do not recommend you do this with your knife. I am a "professional reviewer" so at no point during the making of this video, was I or anyone else in danger. Due to this testing...I mean...world wide...probably! 2024 07 04
Spyderco Lil Native -Part 3- Cut Test After Sharpening
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www.patreon.com/SpartanJohns
Spyderco Lil Native -Part 2- Fist Test with Factory Edge
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www.patreon.com/SpartanJohns
Spyderco Dragonfly - Thoughts after a long time
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Hope you like the video... Patreon ..if you want to support my weird addiction www.patreon.com/SpartanJohns
CPM S110V Spyderco Manix 2 LW Review After 1 Year
Переглядів 1,2 тис.6 місяців тому
If you want to support the channel: Patreon/SpartanJohns After more than 1 year and many, many videos, which you can find on my patreon...this are my opinions on this knife. The model that is...the steel..you can see that in the other videos.
I Was Wrong! Spyderco CPM S110V Blade Chipped
Переглядів 2 тис.6 місяців тому
The "DAMAGE" is really minor. The title is more clickbait than anything. But...yes...if you abuse knives minor or major damage can occur. I wanted to make this video because until now this has not happened. I hope you enjoy and can find this video useful! Also...for more tests with the S110V Manix check out my patreon.
CPM S110V - My Conclusions After 1 Year
Переглядів 4,3 тис.6 місяців тому
I know the video is all over the place that is because I don't script things and also don't want to forget stuff. I hope this was useful to you1 In case you want to see the other videos I made about S110V and the Manix 2 LW check out my Patreon www.patreon.com/SpartanJohns 2024 01 23
ANV Z200 - Fixing It - Bad Design, Bad QC, For A Steep Price - P3
Переглядів 424Рік тому
www.patreon.com/SpartanJohns Part TROIS! Putting the pocket clip back on! I did this for YOU! Guys....this is me! Unscripted(as always) and unfiltered! I hope that this series helps you!
ANV Z200 - Fixing It - Bad Design, Bad QC, For A Steep Price - P2
Переглядів 219Рік тому
www.patreon.com/SpartanJohns 2023 05 08 This is PART DUEX. Me actually bending the liner! Exciting! Watch me get frustrated putting it back together! WITHOUT THE POCKET CLIP!
ANV Z200 - Fixing It - Bad Design, Bad QC, For A Steep Price - P1
Переглядів 439Рік тому
www.patreon.com/SpartanJohns 2023 05 08 I lost all interest in this knife. ANV probably did too. I only make this video and turned it into a 3 part video to give you guys the whole experience. At this point ANV did answer my e-mails telling me to send them the knife! I will reply to their 4th e-mail. Save your money and get ANYTHING ELSE! That is my advice! You do whatever you want to!
ANV Z200 - Review Of A Broken Knife Design
Переглядів 755Рік тому
www.patreon.com/SpartanJohns On January the 1st 2023 I decided to also talk about this. Not sure I can relate it well enough. But don't buy it! Not for 70 $ or for 20$. Not even for 10 or 2. Watch the whole series if you don't believe me I called the steel to be N690. It is not.
ANV Z200 - Clip Position Change - A Tale of Despair
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ANV Z200 - Clip Position Change - A Tale of Despair
ANV Z200 - First Look - First Cuts - NOT A Tale of Redemption - Watch the Whole Series
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ANV Z200 - First Look - First Cuts - NOT A Tale of Redemption - Watch the Whole Series
Real Steel - G Slip - First Look First Cut - P02
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Real Steel - G Slip - First Look First Cut - P02
Real Steel - G Slip - First Look First Cut - P01
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Real Steel - G Slip - First Look First Cut - P01
Gerber Prybrid - "in depth" Look (dumb tests, recommendations and sarcasm included)
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
Gerber Prybrid - "in depth" Look (dumb tests, recommendations and sarcasm included)
Spyderco Bradley 2 - Conclusions After 4 Months - Part 2 - The Design
Переглядів 3,1 тис.Рік тому
Spyderco Bradley 2 - Conclusions After 4 Months - Part 2 - The Design
Kubey Master Chief - First Look / First Cuts - Part 2 Test
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Kubey Master Chief - First Look / First Cuts - Part 2 Test
Kubey Master Chief - First Look / First Cuts - Part 1 Talk
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Kubey Master Chief - First Look / First Cuts - Part 1 Talk
Spyderco Bradley 2 - Unboxing - First Impressions
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Spyderco Bradley 2 - Unboxing - First Impressions
Civivi Sokoke - First Look / First Cuts - Part 2
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Civivi Sokoke - First Look / First Cuts - Part 2
Civivi Sokoke - First Look / First Cuts - Part 1
Переглядів 1 тис.Рік тому
Civivi Sokoke - First Look / First Cuts - Part 1
Civivi Baby Banter - Review After Two Months
Переглядів 5 тис.Рік тому
Civivi Baby Banter - Review After Two Months
Baby Banter - Micarta Scales - First Look - First Cuts
Переглядів 767Рік тому
Baby Banter - Micarta Scales - First Look - First Cuts
Spyderco Caribbean Review (After 2 Months of Carry) Part 5 of 5 - Disassembly
Переглядів 800Рік тому
Spyderco Caribbean Review (After 2 Months of Carry) Part 5 of 5 - Disassembly
Spyderco Caribbean Review (After 2 Months of Carry) Part 4 of 5
Переглядів 827Рік тому
Spyderco Caribbean Review (After 2 Months of Carry) Part 4 of 5
Spyderco Caribbean Review (After 2 Months of Carry) Part 3 of 5
Переглядів 587Рік тому
Spyderco Caribbean Review (After 2 Months of Carry) Part 3 of 5
Spyderco Caribbean Review (After 2 Months of Carry) Part 2 of 5
Переглядів 1,1 тис.Рік тому
Spyderco Caribbean Review (After 2 Months of Carry) Part 2 of 5
For $11. the counterfeit looks pretty decent. Edge holds up, mostly. Not fair to compare the handles since you abused the heck out of the copy. Often the originals, whether they are knives or watches or women's handbags are over-priced. Copies are designed to address that problem. Free market is a weird place.
The downsides to a clone like this are the materials and the fact that some people sell them as originals.
Some stainless steels go hard and brittle, some stainless steels go soft and tough, they each have their place in my opinion. 14C28N is another example or super tough but fairly soft stainless. CPM 3V has similar but slightly less toughness and only slightly more edge retention, and people praise it all around. I hope tough stainless gains popularity, especially when it's virtually rust proof.
FYI the scissors on the pliers-based keychain multitool called the Otacle P1 are good. Seem to cut everything well. Sold by the Olight flashlight brand.
I will have a look at it. Thanks for suggesting it
@franticflintstone7999 If you buy a nextool mini sailor, it is the same product without olight brand at half the price.
yes. I looked into them and noticed that. I also like the fact that the nextool comes in 2 versions. Will definitely look into them
@@K.M925 They were about the same price when I got mine -- roughly 25 bucks. About a dollar cheaper for the NexTool on the version with the knife. The knife-less Nextool is a few bucks lower than that. (I don't shop on AliExpress -- it may be half off on there.) So I went with the Otacle because I preferred the scales and fit and finish.
@@SpartanJohns Only problem with the scissors IMHO is the little tab to deploy them can break your fingernail, but I've learned to come at it from a different angle to prevent that. Also, while the spring is strong, if it breaks that's it because there's not much of a warranty.
Nice video. Ruike s22 it is keychain size with scissors as well .
Thank you for the suggestion. I will have a look at it
Interesting, i think i will just stick to my keychain victorinox for now. I'm sure sharpening the scissors might help as you have suggested but as i learned from Engineer’s Perspective youtube channel, the sharpness isnt really the main cutting mechanism of scissors, its the angle of the two sides in comparison to one another so that correct pressure is applied between them. I am not sure how adjustable this is with these tools but i guess the sides could be bent a bit, though that seems quite a precise and difficult task maybe. You mentioned sharpening AND setting up the scissors, i wondered if this is what you were talking about or something else. In any event, i enjoyed the video.
This is what i meant. The scissors of the sd, when new, have a bit more aggression to them. You can sharpen them to get that back. However tightening the pin and bending the blades is something i am not into trying out. What i found out is that even when you use the scissors of the sd for a long time, even after they lose the initial aggression they still cut better than most other scissors.
@SpartanJohns ah, ok, yes that makes sense, thanks for the clarification. Also, that is a really good point about the longevity of the vic scissors, definitely mirrors my experience when I think about it
Cred ca este mult mai buna ca foarfeca de la victorinox......pare mult mai robusta si precisa. Nu prea ajung sa folosesc foarfeca, folosesc o lama- am obs ca pt mine combo la Resilience in CPM S35VN merge excelent pt "fieldwork"...
mie imi place sa folosesc forfecuta de la vic si din acest motiv am luat clipitool sperand la ceva cel putin la fel de bun.
@@SpartanJohns Hmm....vic mi a parut mereu un jack of all trades, nu mi da impresia de ceva de incredere-am preferat spyderco sau CS pt lama si cam atat. Cel putin stiu ca am "lama" de incredere inclusiv ca lock ( code 4, prolite, recon4)...pt keychain am un mini pushdagger- da stiu, am "probleme" 😂 dar astea sunt pt peace of mind. Chiar si cand am refacut o cusatura la geanta de scule sau centura, am taiat firul cu un boker 😂... Multa sanatate si la cat mai multe videoclipuri man !
Daca te uiti la ultimul clip pe care l-am facut cu vic sd o sa vezi ca e mult mai capabil decat pare la prima vedere. Si mie imi place sa incerc tot felul de unelte de la tot felul de producatori. In ultima vreme am folosit foarte mult bricegele victorinox testand daca pot face acelasi chestii, pe care le fac cu altele, cu ele. Depinde doar de cum setezi geometria lamei si un pic de tehnica. Mie imi place classic sd pt ca il pot lua oriunde cu mine fara probleme
Hi, to be honest. Your videos are something different from others. For example I like the way how You explain the sharpening done on Your knives and for this concrete vide after I heard "factory edge I just stropped it to remove burr" i never thought that this is important so I did it immediately on my new Stretch 2 in K390. Thanks for all these small details from person who really knows what he is doing.
I am really happy that i can provide some useful information. For me the “factory settings” on a knife are not so important but i imagine that for some they might be. This is why i try to give these sort of information. As well as what it “can do” after sharpening and slightly modding the handle. I realise that i have a different viewpoint than regular users since i am more a “tester” than a user so i am happy when i know that i can give useful information.
Hi, interesting video, thanks. My opinion maybe useful info for someone. I have Spyderco Military in CPM S110V and to Spydercos Police 4 and Stretch 2 in K390. I have a set of sharpening stones Shapton Kuromaku in grids: 320, 1000, 2000, 5000 etc. I sharpened these knifes on them and without any problems. Yes it takes longer like mid range steels but possible. If I compare the S110V and K390, K390 is more difficult to sharpen like S110V. For both I tried mirror finish edges and a little bit toothier edges. On these stones I see best cutting performance (cardboards, basic stuff at home etc) when i finish the sharpening on kuromaku 1000 grit stone and finish it on leather strop loaded with 1 micron diamond spray. Bud thanks, good to know that for push cuts the mirror, semi-mirror finish is better.
Glad to hear that people are applying common sense and sharpening steel to see if youtuber statements make sense. I have been sharpening k390, for the past 6-7 months on sandpaper. Gradually reducing the thickness of the blade and testing to see if i can notice “a weaker edge” do to the abrasive. None so far. Been doing the same thing to zdp for a few years now. Same result. I have, a few weeks ago, received a sage 5 lw with a maxamet blade. I restored the edge with sandpaper. Of course diamond stones will cut it faster and of course there can be differences when you’re “chasing the perfect apex” but in day to day activities i could not really notice differences. I will, after i am done with testing k390, reprofile the maxamet blade on sandpaper and sharpen it on sandpaper only. And i am sure that even at lower edge angles and thicknesses there will be no difference in how the edge performs. There is the possibility that i am wrong…that would truly be interesting.
@@SpartanJohns I sharpened Maxamet (Spyderco Manix 2) with precise angle sharpener and Diamond stones because i had difficulties. For me Maxamet edge stability was good when i sharpened it on 17 degrees per side, Lower angles caused me the problems - chipping. It is damn hard and more brittle steel, not intended to hard work. But light work like cardboards ets fantastic. Maxamet don't like force which is comig from side something like carving - this is no go. But if we talking about steels for me the best performance steel is the K390 and also yes M390 is also great steel for less money this is great option.
I keep my PM2 with a Maxamet blade at 13 dps. Had no issues with it thru cardboard, hard plastic and hard, dry beechwood. I did sharpen it on diamond stones because i was curious how i could get/maintain a hair whittling edge. I have noticed no issues with edge instability so far. The Sage 5 LW Maxamet is now at 16 dps. Too thick bte for my liking and it is hard to see the benefits of such steels at large edge angles/thicknesses. I have seen videos about maxamet fracturing while sharpening but i have not noticed that. Been playing around with it for over a year now. My curiosity is what it does if treated(sharpened and used) like any other steel. So far its edge holding abilities in abrazive materials is fantastic and from what i noticed it is more affected by the environment than k390, 15v, m4. Now i am even more curious
@@SpartanJohns well my Manix 2 is from very early production I don't remember how many years a go, but i remember that it was really back in time when directly appeared on the market. Maybe there is the problem. Heat threateng? God know. Maybe I will buy Native 5 one day and try how it will behave.
I have seen youtubers post videos about that when the first batches of maxamet came out. Have not had any problems with mine so far
Impressive,....I bought the Master Chief with the red and black scales and black blade combo. It's looks and performs extremely well,..and for the price,..win win🗡🗡🗡
I like the model. The action, the feel in hand as well as the large variety of color/materials they offered it in
Probably the best large folding knife made!
Never had the espada. Can imagine that one is not too shabby. As for this one: it is amazing imo.
I got the one with red/black handles with black blade. I love it🗡🗡🗡
I like it. Definitely different than other folders i own
I think the QC is more of a Seki City issue than Spyderco in general. I own 6 Golden models and two Sekis. On my first K390 Lil Temperance, the right side of the blade had an uneven grind. Didn’t notice it until I sharpened it, then it became apparent that there was a “wave” in the grind near the ricasso. There’s one spot about 1/4” long and about 1/4” forward of the ricasso on the right side that the bevel grind got noticeably wider once I sharpened it. Once I saw that, and checked carefully under good lighting, it was apparent that the grind had a wave in it at that point. That knife also had one of the worst factory edges I’ve ever had on a new knife. Hence why I sharpened it right away. All of the Golden knives on the other hand have had perfect primary and bevel grinds out of the box.
Unfortunately i have noticed the same issues. For the past fee years. Edge leaves a lot to be desired and grinds are asimetrycal. Recently i have had a few issues with golden models as well. The only ones which were ok were the Taichung ones. My latest endela k390 came with a visible burr. Once i removed it the edge was ok but the sharpening was uneven. Same issue you described. Since i sharpen/test it is not a real issue for me. But i can imagine how when someone pays 130+ for a folder it might not be the best experience
I believe the Caribbean is the best all round EDC blade made.
As far as spyderco goes i think it is one of their best designs. Only thing it needed for me was the deep carry pocket clip to make it more comfortable
The Scout is as close to a fixed blade as you're gonna get. Not to mention the value! As far as failure goes, I haven't seen or heard of any from the Scout...
I agree! Have never heard any bad things about it and have not had any fails from mine.
I think you have a typo in the title ("Victorinoc"). Not a big deal for the eye, but it may hurt discoverability in youtube searches. PS: I'm glad you are Romanian. There's many of us passionate about knives and the graeat outdoors! Cheers from Bucharest! 🥂
I never noticed. I used to be but not anymore. Left that life/land in the rearview
@@SpartanJohns Strange answer. Don't understand how you can't be Romanian anymore even if you left. Anyway, thanks for the videos always nice to see your point of view on knives since you are always so detailed and your reviews are always helpful. I carry a Ruike S21-N on my keys and a Victorinox Huntsman in my bag, maybe I should buy a classic also hmmm.
I guess it’s a state of mind. Leaving life/land behind and not feeling you belong there at all anymore. Since i left i have never been back nor wish to do so. I had the huntsman. A good model. For city and for outdoor. I recently switched to the compact. Fits my needs much better. A classic sd is, imo, always a good choice to have on your keychain. Since you can take it anywhere even thru airport security. So you can always have a small edge and more important: those very capable scissors
Nope, not every steel chips when chopping steel wire. CPM-3V with the Delta heat treat doesn't.
Adamantium and 3V with Delta HT. Got it! But other than that…if you chop thru steel wire all steels with all HT’s will chip, bend…
I heard that CPM M4 can do it as well, but I haven't seen it. However, yeap, these are extreme exceptions. Steels obtained via standard metalurgy will either chip or plastically deform doing this (and most of the powder steels will chip as well).
Nope! Neither M4, 3V or any other steel can resist taking damage when you are chopping thru steel wire. The tests you see on youtube are of knives with large edge angles and soft steel. Or 1 in a milion tries. You have to understand that chopping introduces a whole other ballpark of tensions. Unlike normal cutting. Stories and claims i have heard a lot. However i have also tested many steels. M4 and 3V among them. Both powder steels. That is what CPM does. Crucible Particle Metallurgy. Don’t believe such stories. Better to test for yourself. That is what i started doing for a long time now…
Nope, I'm talking about my experience, not what I see on YT. I have a Swamp Rat Free Rein Wakizashi in 3V @62 HRC. I chopped wood that had insertions of steel wire under the bark. I didn't notice that until I finished. I had no chip at all, just two minor dents that could be felt when moving the nail onto the edge, but not visible with the eye. And the times I might hit and cut those wires were more than twice for sure. The edge is somehow thick, but not as thick as it is on my other Busse knives. It is just about comparable with the edge on my Fallkniven A2, just that it's not convexed. So this is true. It's one of the blades that I use in one of my videos. Properly heat treated CPM-3V can do that. It's tru, I'm not fabulating. For M4 I mentioned that I just heard about it, but I hanev't seen it. For 3V I have personally experienced it.
Soft steel does not chip. Axes, machetes made out of non stainless “soft” steel(55-57 hrc) will not chip. They will dull. True, some keep 3v at lower hardness levels, but that is wasting good steel. Or saving money on HT. You can leave any steel soft so that it does not chip but rather bend. But those bends(flat or warped) require steel to be removed beyond the immediate area of damage, just like chips. Otherwise you are leaving weakened steel there. Which, in the long run, will not help you at all. So rather than an expensive 3v which was left soft to save money on HT, i would take a 1095(ROWEN HT), O1, or a well heat treated AEB-L and adapt the geometry to what it is you want to cut.
Fake or original, I don't understand why people prefer such a thick blade, in such a short knife, when everything you do with it can be also done with a Mora... 🤔
For a number of reasons. Handle, grind, steel, sheath. Moras are good but, for example, as a knife used for processing game, the f1 will do a better job not just at cutting but also prying
@@SpartanJohns That's a good point. I haven't thought about prying with a small knife, but it's a valid usage, especially when hammering and/or batoning it into wood or bone. 👍
Such knives are not meant for cutting and whittling tasks alone. A blade like the mora 510(1,5-2,0 mm) is more suited for that. A full height convex blade might so well with cutting tasks better than one would expect. But it’s primary purpose is still resisting abuse. Looking at the F1 especially you dan understand why the lamination and why Fallkniven heat treats their vg10 to a higher hardness even if the steel becomes “chippy”. I have tested this too. Better for edge retention. It develops microchips which will act like microserrations. The outer softer layers will help it resist such tasks like chopping, prying, batoning. Now i see the logic behind it. Took me a while
Chipping is still one of the worst things that can happen to a knife edge. From a health point of view it's risky to have microchips migrating into your food, especially from a steel that includes toxical elements like Nickel, Mercury, or Cobalt - which are carcinogenic (and VG-10 has a high amount of Cobalt). And you normally need to do some food prep in survival. From another perspective, chipping weakens the neighbour areas of the impact, inducing cracks and fisures around the affected area. That is why a chipped edge is always more difficult to restore by resharpening, without removing a lot more material than you would for a roll or dent. In my experience M390 beats VG-10 in all regards (including toughness and corrosion resistance) and it has aprox. 4 times the edge retention than VG-10. I think that Fallkniven continues to use VG-10, COS and the likes just because of the cost factor, because they have an advantageous contract with Takefu. I have two Fallknivens and like them so much for the craftmanship, design, and quality control, but I hate them so much because of the VG-10 steel.
Chipping is not chipping. Different steels chip in different ways. Sometimes it can be advantagious. When talking about steels with a large volume of hard carbides like s110v or maxamet these chip very different than vg10. In everyday/outdoor use i never had a steel which i could say greatly(1-4 or 1-5) outperformed another. What you are cutting is most important, then technique and geometry. Steel, imo, is last. As for coatings and steel getting into food, i don’t worry about that. Just like teflon or aluminium.
You should get some Camilla Oil or miniral oil. Both are edible and will protect your blade from corrosion. I use Camellia oil on my 1095 Damascus knife and its works great. I have an M390 edc knife now and I still rub oil on it after I sharpen ir strop it. I do like to use ceramic plates and the srop on my M390 one prettty often. Not to restore it but because it seems to get sharper and sharper the more I work on it.
I do not have an issue with the patina on my k390. And have not noticed any rust. The only thing which ever caused a dull spot was contact with glass. I imagine ceramic does the same. Stropping more will give you a finer edge. But once in a while you need to do a complete sharpening(remove the apex and form a new one)
One of my favorite videos. So nice just being in the nature and talking about knives :) Quite relaxing and perhaps meditative
Glad you enjoyed the video
I'll always carry my 4 max scout. And my nephew will be carrying a 4 max when he's 14
Definitely a big folder. I tested it against the esee4. Made a video. Sure it is not going to be as resistant to abuse as a well made fixed blade but i think it definitely held its own
I heard it was the best, so I bought 3. Two elementum 2 button locks, and one Elementum I with liner lock. Had them for 1 year. Button lock is fun to play with and feels strong. It isn't. Lost the tip in no time. D2 steel is good if it is heat treated right. These are not. They are made in China.
I think i mentioned it in more than 1 video including this one that this d2 does not compare with the one Brisa heat treats. That one is much batter. As for the elementum 2 button lock..it is thinner and as such not really made for abuse. I also got one recently and i enjoy the thin grind. Makes cutting tasks very easy. For stronger tips which can be abused: the benchmade 940 or most Cold Steel knives.
Felix Immler has a youtube video on how to sharpen the scissor on a Victorinox.
Victorinox scissors are set up good. So sharpening is easy. Other scissors are not set up so good. Even if sharpened they will not cut as good.
First reviewer to pronounce Chevalier correctly. Kudos sir.
Thanks! Hope you found the video useful too not just the pronunciation. 😉
I just ordered the K390 Stretch 2 and Stretch 2 XL. Haven't received them yet but looking forward to trying them out. Spyderco makes great knives 😊
I hope you will like it. The nice thing about K390 is that while sharpening, even if you make mistakes you can still get a great edge....and the model...well... I like it very much. Let me know one you got it if you can relate to what I said in the video and if you noticed something I did not.
Hello, thanks for these useful comparisons beatween different models, it helps a lot, especially about thickness behind the edge and slicing performances. By the way i would be glad to heart your thoughts about leafjumper in k390 because it seems to agregate different shapes of different Spyderco models. Are you interest in ? Thanks a lot !
I am interested in all Spyderco models! Just got another knife in K390 and debated a lot whether to get the Leafjumper or the Endela. I went for the Endela this time. In hindsight maybe the Leafjumper might have been more interesting. however there was one nice surprise with the Endela. Even if the edge was left with a burr on, and sharpened at slightly different edge angles the angle was about 15-16 dps...and at 0.3-0.4 mm...that is good
@@SpartanJohns Thanks, i own an Endela in K390 an i take it everytime versus my PM2. The blade shape really seems to be superior for EDC tasks, Stronger and less dangerous tip helps TOO. The only downside is that you canot cut that hard because of the slim handle without choil. Ideally i would have a Stretch 2 handle combined with Endela or Leafjumper blade.
@@yoannmolard-auclair592 to be honest i also thought the tip of the pm2 or stretch 2 to be a bit too thin. But testing it, And not really forcing it, i found no issues. The manix tip is much sturdier by comparison but with abuse you can see i broke it. For a really sturdy tip: try the cold steel ultimate hunter.
Is the point acute for stubbing?
It’s more thought out for hunting tasks
Moin Denis, ich bin mir sicher, daß ich noch nie solch ein ausführliches Video zum Classic SD von Victorinox gesehen habe! 🙂 Ich bin ganz deiner Meinung, die Schere ist das Highlight und das Haupt-Werkzeug dieser Modelle, ist zumindest bei mir auch so.....und ich bin auch immer wieder beeindruckt, das die Messer von Victorinox ab Werk quasi immer perfekt kommen.....diese Qualität für den Preis ist großartig. Deine Tipps wie man mit der kurzen Klinge besser schneiden/schnitzen kann (und auch worauf man achten muss bezüglich der Arbeitssicherheit), die waren sehr gut.....man muss das wirklich trainieren und Erfahrungen sammeln. 27:00 Not bad! 🙂 Stay sharp & Peace, Stephan
Hi Stephan. Vics sind nicht oft beeindruckend. Allerdings das sie immer arbeitsbereit kommen und dass die Schaere immer top ist…das beindruckt schon! Je mehr ich mit vics, auch in der Kueche, arbeite um so mehr bin ich von den Teilen fasziniert. Als naechstes muss ich mir ein Windmuehl Masser mal kaufen! Eins der kleinen schalmesser. Von was ich gesehen habe sind die Schliffe sehr beeindruckend. Danke! LG, Denis
I had a lot of Spydercos but no Benchmades. Couldn't find a dealer here. Finally, I found one online. I first bought a 556-S30V Mini-Grip. My second one was either the 940-2 or the Redoubt. I then bought a 945 and then the 940BK-2004 Blade HQ exclusive. I really wanted a 551 Griptilian because compared to the smaller knives, that was more me if you know what I mean. Finally a 551-S30V became available so I immediately ordered it. I love the knife. In fact, I love it so much I decided to try the 550-S30V which only arrived last Monday (07/15/2024). I was leery about taking my Benchmade knives apart because I totally stripped a t6 screw on my 940-2 but last week, I decided to go ahead. I first worked on my Redoubt. It had blade movement up and down and side to side.and wasn't drop shut at all. Weird. Now it's perfect. Did the same to my 551. Action was already okay but I decided to see if I could make it even better. Totally solid when it's open, perfectly centered and blade drops like a dream. Did the same to my 550 even though it's only three days old. 🙂
I still have 3 benchmades. Bugout, mini bugout, auto immunity. Sold the rest because i had to. However the griptilian and the 940 i still regret selling. They can be fidgety to get to where the action is great and no bladeplay but with some experience it then becomes easy. I still go for spydercos mainly because of the wide variety of steels. I like sharpening so…there’s that. As a whole i like benchmade. Just wish they would also eork on their grinds, like they did with the taggedout
@@SpartanJohns One thing I wish Benchmade would do is use T8 body screws.
@@carmelotansengco4605 i wish that all companies would use t8 as their smallest screws.
Opening it with the back lock is what gave it that flat spot I noticed myself that the spring will touch the edge when you push in on the lock while it’s closed
Not so much opening as closing it. When the blade slammed in the lockbar. Still a design flaw as it can easily be done so that it does not happen.
Bună. Super
Merci
Great review, dropping a comment for the algorithm!
Hi. Have you tried outdoor axe from GB? I want to buy one but I need a second opinion
No i have not. Only wildlife, hunter and scandinavian forest
I've tried the liners+G10 Dragonfly and the liners+G10 Robin back to back, and the Robin is way more comfortable and secure in hand (and so much cheaper).
I agree that the byrd designs are much more ergonomic and for work knives…make more sense
How did you get the sharpening choil on that Manix?
Diamond file and patience
Thank you
Glad you liked it. It is a grat product. And their quality and standards have remained very high over the years. Improved i would say
I prefer Jetsetter model without blade and file but with multitool with phillips screwdriver that fits in almost every screw, and it's useful as prybar. It's smaller and good combination with pocket knife.
I considered it. I also like having the small blade. As i see these knives more as “a useful thing on my keychain” i was never that tempted to find a better model also from vic. It is rare for me to have such tools. That i really don’t view as a tool but also a toy. This is why i never really made a video about it for so long. Lately, as i started trying to replace it with something else and comparing it just dawned on me that this little tool was something which was so good that i never thought about it
People can say what they want about AUS8 but these Russians have mastered the heat treat on that steel
oh yes! i completely agree! with a good HT aus8 is superb!
Brother don’t cut your hand that was very dangerous
not quite sure which part you mean...
Great video, I liked the comparisons you chose. The gb2 has been on my to get list for a lot of years. As market trends stray away from my personal interests, I have been slowly catching up on older knives I have always wanted to try. This one and a ZT 0640 have always been very good looking knives to me, the latter being discontinued and second hand prices just way too high.
some new models seem quite interesting. but tbh...the older models just feel better in hand. I have had a few ZT's but they were always very thick behind the edge and build more for abusive work than to be used as fine cutting tools. the 0350 is a great heavy duty work folder but not so adequate for finer cutting tasks. The GB2 falls under more categories: gentleman' folder, heavier task knife and due to the grind you can also do finer tasks with it. plus i think it just looks good in either role
Awesome Demo!
thank you! glad you liked it!
The classic is one of my favorites. I've removed the scales from one to make it thinner so that I can keep it in my wallet. I could've bought an alox one but I already had 3 regular ones and I didn't want to spend the money.
I have had the alox sd. it is very slim and nice. maybe it is because of the lower price of the regular models, and the tweezer/toothpick that I prefer these. but with or without scales, in the wallet or on your keys...to me, having one of these just makes sense
Tocmai ce m-ai inspirat intr-o noua achizite....imi place cum se comporta !
eu am purtat modelul asta mult timp...si incetu cu incetu am inceput sa il folosesc tot mai des. dupa aia l-am ascutit i am subtiat taisul...e foarte util pt cat de mic e. si e cel putin la fel de rezistent pe cat e de util
DISCLAIMER: Actions shown in this video are performed by a trained youtube knife tester/reviewer. Don't try this at home! I made this video not because I wanted others to start using and abusing their keychain tools, but rather because I have seen way too many people complaining that the SD is not build very sturdy or that the tiny blade is not enough. Some also complain about Victorinox's steel and the fact that it does not hold an edge. I wanted to show, that if you learn a few things about cutting geometry, even a small, narrow and thin blade like this can be very capable. And it does hold an edge, because of the new cutting geometry. More videos like this: on my patreon. Link in description!
Hello there! I just got this axe in a sale for 20€ and i agree with you. For the money its great. Its a Perfect beater, camping, car hatchet. I recently also purchased the Fiskars X13 as i liked the concept in theory. It was pretty disappointing and i sold it again. It came rather dull, the edge angle makes it more or less useless for anything but splitting. But Even for Splitting its not very functional because of the dull Factory edge, angle and light head. On hard wood it Even bounces back and smashing it into tree stump when you dont need it is almost impossible. The Ganzo is better in all aspects but weight. And i somehow even like that saw in the handle. Its Not a silky for sure but it works and is better than nothing. Great to see you are still making videos. Choice of knives and tools and reviews are still no nonsense and well thought out! Greetings
glad you are liking it. i played around with the fiskars axes. i like them. but i can definitely understand why you feel the way you feel about the x13. a friend of mine has one and uses it. but he sharpened it and convexed it. my favorite axe so far price/performace/quality has been the husqvarna carpenter's axe. check it out. when i got it it was about 60 euros...lately their prices have gone up
@@SpartanJohns convexed its more versatile probably, yes. Actually i got way too many axes over the years. And i always Come back to the same two or three models. And i am damn happy i got what i got. Especially the swedish stuff is so expensive now its insane. That makes alternatives like the Ganzo even more attractive of course.
Is Spyderco coated blade softer than uncoated in same steel?
i have never tested. i am sure others have. in use i have not seen a difference between coated and uncoated s30v
How does lil native compare in comfort in hand against chaparral? Thanks.
lil native is chunkier. overal i preffer the chaparral but they are very different
OMG !!! I wouldn't, though , that it is nearly closer capable of doing such tasks with an SD ! Thank you for making this video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Denis! Thanks for sharing your thoughts, I enjoyed watching the three part series. I have some Opinions on the Lil Native. I got a used Rex 45 Sprint run version for a very good price some time ago. I originally was interested in it, because it shares a lot of build features with the PM2 but in a much smaller, more office friendly package. After carrying and using it, I find it just does not make much sence to me. It is overbuild for its size, which adds to the weight and I find I miss just a tad bit of blade for a few daily tasks, like slicing an apple. I never had this feeling with the Delica, which also is lighter. I think that the Lil Native was very clearly build around size constraints, but i really do not care that much about the closed lenght of a folding knife, esp. if it is this small. To me it seems like a mini hard use folder (esp. in Rex 45) for areas with strict laws, I think that Nick Shabazz mentioned Chicagos 2.5 inch blade limit in his review. If you are not affected by such laws, to me the more sensible option would be to either get a larger knife, or, if you want the small size, get something very light like the Dragonfly (maybe the upcoming Lil Native lightweight could also be a good option). I do admit though, that I like the humpless blade shape a lot as well and it made me consider the full size Native. Do you intent to carry it as your main and only balde or as a secondary/backup? I find, that it is just a tad to small to be a one and only folder for me. Regards, David
to be 100% honest i get by with the victorinox sd on my keychain. I am more curious about how i can adapt it to me. round off the g10 scales, thin out the grind. For me, this blade would be enough, but as it is, it is a bit too thick behind the edge. and yes, the handle is very bulky. but i like the lack of a hump, as you said and the lack of jimping. and the wire pocket clip, in my book, is always a good idea. yes...the frn model which will be released is interesting, but the dragonfly....while i like it, for use i would take the chucky lil native anyday.
liking that one!!
me too!
I have the slipjoint verson. Although its not petfect its staying i agree with everything you say. Changed the grind and pocket clip (not wire on the slipjoint it comes without jimping) its as good as it gets.
in time i think i will round off the g10 handle scales and thin out the grind. I do like it for its size. glad to hear i am not the only one